Business South August 2020

| 49 Volume 29 | Issue 4 businesssouth J M Harris Limited specialises in sending small sample and direct to consumer wine shipments internationally. We currently serve over 200 NZ wineries handling thousands of shipments per year, and offer an unparalleled number of services at the best prices in the industry. Whatever you need for your small wine shipments we will have a solution. anager Please call or email us today for a quote or further information. Jeremy Harris Director T +64 9 256 0033 M +64 21 317 117 E jeremy@jmharris.co.nz Kevin Saunders Sales Manager T +64 9 393 4993 M +64 22 458 1838 E kevin@jmharris.co.nz Dennis Khosla Operations Manager T +64 9 394 2947 M +64 22 318 2534 E operations@jmharris.co.nz VITICULTURE » Churton Vineyard “We firmly believe the source of exceptional wines lies in the vineyard....” Churton: a unique approach to wine Mandy and Sam Weaver with sons, Ben, left, and Jack - a little slice of paradise. Nick Gormack S ituated in the southern Hills of Marlborough above the Waihopai Valley, Churton Vineyard has a unique approach to wine and wine-making – one which sets it apart from its larger commercial neighbours. Farmed with biodynamic principles, Churton produces a range of organic wines (it is certified with Biogro NZ) that express the vineyard’s unique terroir and clay-based soils. Churton was founded by Sam and Mandy Weaver 30 years ago – and it’s development reflects their shared passion for promoting ecological values and focusing on biodiversity. It’s an approach that has served them well over the years, as they have raised their family (boys Ben and Jack, who now both work in the vineyard and winery) and developed the farm. Today, as well as the 22ha vineyard , the 51ha farm is also home to a herd of Red Devon cattle, swarms of bees, chickens and forestry. “We really think of ourselves as a farm, rather than a vineyard,” says Sam, who was raised on a farm in the UK (the Churton name itself comes from his grandparents’ farm in Shropshire). “We encourage diversity over the whole property and that reflects our principles and outlook.” The vineyard itself also reflects Sam’s skills and experience. A qualified microbiologist, Sam is also a wine enthusiast who spent years working in the UK wine industry and also as a wine-maker in New Zealand before establishing Churton. Churton reflects his own European wine experi- ence . “It’s a European-style vineyard, rather than a New World style vineyard. It’s on a hill - when we set it up there were no vineyards on hills here – so it has good sun angles. “There is good soil drainage and air drainage - we don’t have to worry about frosts because the cold air just tumbles down into the valley!” “Our plant density here is also much greater – more than double that of conventional vineyards – this means greater competition which creates more resilient vines with deeper roots.” “This is good in dry years and we’ve had a very dry one this year, our use of irrigation is minimal and even in a season like the one passed it’s minis- cule in comparison to our neighbours .” Producing Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir (“although not in the typical Marlborough styles”) as well as small quantities of the more exotic Viognier and Petit Manseng varieties, Churton’s core philosophy - as the company website outlines - is producing “New World wine tempered with Old World style”. Sam says the site’s altitude (200m), the clay- based soils and superb north-east aspect “allow us to create wines that are approachable in youth but with a remarkable ability to age”. He says that the biodynamic farming system, while requiring a greater labour input than con- ventional vineyards, is “core to the all-important grape quality and expression of the individuality and uniqueness of the site: ie the terroir”. “We firmly believe the source of exceptional wines lies in the vineyard. At the microbiology level our soils and plants are invigorated with biodynamic preparations and compost. This develops and strengthens the general microbial ecology and the life of the soil. So that’s the bottom-line.” He says Churton is a polyculture not just a mono- culture of vines. “The animals, the inter-row plants, insects, vines all feed and encourage the microbial diversity on the farm.” The wines are made off-site at a certified organic winery, a process which they fully control. “We are all about the pursuit of individuality in our wines Those different tastes which are derived from the vineyard gives us the differentiation in the market place.” Around 95% of the company’s output is exported – it used to be 100% - the major slice split almost evenly between the UK/Europe, North America and Asia, with a smaller amount going to Australia. “Our market are those who appreciate our uniqueness and are prepared to pay more for a higher quality wine.” He says that being organic does help to “open doors” when exploring new markets. “There is growing global interest in organic wines and it can help to open doors to new markets. There is a premium attached to being organic, around 8% of vineyards in New Zealand now are certified organic, and there is certainly more interest there.” “When we started out we used to sell all our wine in international markets but we now have a small local presence - it’s good for us as it helps to generate interest and raise our profile - and it helps the cashflow.” In terms of cash flow, Sam says that the Covid-19 crisis has had some effect, particularly on restaurant sales, but retails sales are less exposed. “Most exporters sell through wholesalers and the better ones are adapting more quickly, but there will be ongoing effects.” He also worries that the New Zealand wine industry as a whole has become overly dependant on the signature sauvignon blanc variety. “80% of New Zealand’s wine exports are Marl- borough Sauvignon Blanc – so the industry is very exposed to any decline in that market. It’s not good for the industry as a whole to have all its eggs in one basket.” He says the issue of climate change is another major concern, and the effects are already being seen. “That might be the strongest argument yet for adopting a biodynamic farming style as this delivers resilience to the vineyard whilst at the same time sequestering more carbon in the soil .” With Sam and Mandy now easing out of the every day running of the vineyard, sons Ben and Jack are overseeing the operations and winery. They were instrumental in the recent launch of the new Churton Natural State label, which has generated a lot of interest. “This is a different market for us,” says Sam. “It’s aimed at the younger craft beer ( hipster) genera- tion who have a different way of looking at things – it builds on our organic credentials, but it’s even more natural, with minimal wine-making input.” And he says it’s a good example of how the wine market has evolved . “The wine market has changed enormously in recent years. People drink wine in different places now, in different ways, and for different reasons – to survive you have to move with the times.”